The lovely Chai dress from Itch to Stitch

Dansk version længere nede (scroll down for Danish version)

There is a new pattern from the talented Itch to stitch just out. The Chai Shirt and Dress is a “classic fit-and-flare style that flatters everyone”.
The flattering part is really true. During the testing I have seen this dress sewn up for a lot of different sizes and a lot of different bust sizes, and it looks really great on all sizes. Part of that is because Kennis makes the pattern with cup-sizes from A-DD. No need to make any FBA or SBA.
Also the dress is supposed to be fitted at the waist, and that looks great on most people.

The pattern comes with the option for a sleeveless dress or a gathered short sleeve. The Chai is designed with a narrow shoulder line, which gives you a petit appearance even if you, as me, have broad shoulders. The gathering on the sleeves cover the shoulder, if you choose that option. I usually have to adjust for my broad shoulders, but I didn’t have to on the Chai. The final dress I made sleeveless, but my muslin had shoulders (see last picture with pins instead of buttons and all).

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Chai is meant to be sewn in light-weight woven fabric, such as Shirting, cotton, lightweight denim, rayon twill and crepe. I made my muslin in a light cotton and the final dress in a black woven rayon with a little polyester.
My next Chai will be made with a lovely rayon crepe from Atelier Brunette from Metermeter.

This is my second time testing for Kennis at Itch to Stitch and I really love her patterns. They are very thoroughly constructed and everything fits together so well. I love her sense of detail and her choice of methodes.
Kennis´instructions are very clear and precise and illustrated very well.

IMG_0942Choosing buttons is a bit difficult, I think. It is so important for the overall appearance of the dress/skirt and most times you have to decide only from the fabric when you buy it at the store or from what you have in your stash at home. Ideally you would sew the garment, bring it to the store and then decide which buttons to choose. Well who has that kind of time?
This time I was lucky; I found some vintage buttons from my moms old stash that went nicely with the dress. I just love how they came, sewn onto cardboard one by one.
I always find it tedious to sew on buttons by hand, especially since it is usually the last thing you do when sewing a garment. The awesome test group gave me the courage to sew buttons on with my sewing machine. Wow, what a difference. Will be doing that from now on.

Go get your pattern now; it is on sale for the next short period of time.

Chai Shirt and Dress

Der er netop kommet et nyt mønster fra super dygtige Itch to Stitch. Chai Shirt and Dress er en klassisk skjortekjole med vidde der klæder alle.
Og den klæder virkelig de fleste. I løbet af testen har jeg set den syet op i mange størrelser med mange forskellige bust-størrelser og den er super fin til alle. Det skyldes nok delvist, at Kennis laver sine mønstre med forskellige cup størrelser. Man skal altså måde vælge sin størrelse og sin cup størrelse. Ingen grund til at skulle lave FBA eller SBA.

Kjolen/skjorten er lavet til at sidde til i taljen og det giver en god silhouette til de fleste.

Kjolen/skjorten giver mulighed for enten at lave den uden ærme eller med et kort rynket ærme. Chai er designed med smal skulderbredde og får en til at se mere petit ud, også selvom man, som jeg, har brede skulder. Jeg skal normalt lave en tilretning for brede skuldre, men det er ikke nødvendigt her; rynkerne på ærmet dækker fint. Se evt sidste billede som er min prøvekjole (med nåle istedet for knapper und alles).

Chai er designed til at blive syet op i let fast stof, f.eks skjortestof, let bomuld, fast viscose i twill eller crepe eller måske silke. Jeg lavede min prøvekjole i let bomuld og den endelige version i viscose med lidt polyester.
Den næste skal laves i en super lækker viscose crepe fra Atelier Brunette fra Metermeter.

Det er anden gang jeg tester for Kennis fra Itch to Stitch og jeg er vild med hendes mønstre. De er meget gennemførte og alle dele passer perfekt sammen. Hun bruger nogle fine detaljer og gode teknikker.
Vejledningen er udførlig og alle trin er illustreret meget fint.
Jeg lærer noget hver gang😊.

At vælge knapper er ikke altid helt let, men meget vigtigt for det endelige udtryk. For det meste vælger man mens man står i butikken med et stykke stof i hånden eller udfra hvad man har på lageret hjemme. Ideelt set skulle man sy tøjet, tag det med i forretningen og så vælge der udfra, men hvem har tid til det?
Jeg var heldig denne gang; jeg fandt nogle gamle knapper fra min mors gamle lager som passede godt. Synes det er så fint, at de er syet på et fint stykke karton enkeltvis.
Jeg synes det er meget langsommeligt at sy knapper på i hånden, især når der er så mange, men gennem testgruppen fik jeg mod nok til at prøve at sy knapper i på symaskinen. WOW, hvorfor har jeg ikke gjort det før. Det er super nemt.

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Hera from Wardrobe by Me hack

There is jet another new pattern coming out from Wardrobe by Me. This time also a top, but this one is different; It is FREE. Yes, free. All you have to do to get your hands on this gorgeous pattern, is to sign up for a Wardrobe by Me newsletter.

The top is called Hera after a Greek goddess. Here is how Christina from WbM describes Hera herself  “a sweet feminine peplum top. It´s designed with flutter sleeves and an easy elasticated waistline. The neckline is finished with facing and the lower part of the armscye is finished with binding”.Skærmbillede 2017-06-27 kl. 13.58.52

I did not choose to test this top, since I am a little ambivalent towards flutter sleeves and I have never tried on anything with a peplum. But when Christina asked us testers, if we would like to hack the Hera top, I immediately felt like doing a Hera top with an Urban Sweatpants bottom, sort of like a jumpsuit. Many testers did great hacks and there is a lot inspiration to be found on the Wardrobe by Me blog. If you would like a short sleeve instead of the flutter sleeve, there is a pattern for that in the WbM pattern support group on FB.

The Hera top is made for woven fabric and the Urban for knit. I new I could get the Hera to work in a knit and I wasn’t sure about making the Urban in a woven, so I choose to make the whole garment in a black cotton/rayon knit with lycra.

I had to make a few adjustments to make the two patterns work together;

  • I lengthened both the body of the Hera and the pants to make sure they met at the waist and wouldn’t give me a wedgie. I am also tall, 5’8 and usually have to add extra length when I sew. I lengthened both with 2″, which means 4″ extra length all in all. I was pleased with the amount, as it also gave the top more of a blouse effect.
  • I wanted to omit the flutter sleeve, so instead I made the shoulder wider in order to make it a bit more kimono-like. I am really pleased with this change.
  • Since sewing the two together didn’t make it possible to sew in a waistband, I included a 2″ strip of the fabric to the inside seam when I sew the two together. After connection the two, I sew the extra band to the pants, which gave me a tunnel to run my string through. Before sewing the top and bottom together, I had put in eyelets to the top front of the pants.

This Hera/Urban hack is sooo comfortable and jet pretty stylish, I think. It can be dressed up or down with shoes and accessories and will get lots of wear. You know how sometimes you sew something and it looks good when you put it on and look in the mirror, but when you wear it afterwards, it dosen´t feel right or works in reality. This is not the case here. I have worn this a few times already and it feels very good. It works!

I have not sewn the Urban sweatpants before, but after doing this mix, I will definitely have to make a pair of Urban straight up. I really like the fit; roomy at the thighs and slim at the calves.

Christina has a Facebook page where you can share your WbM work, ask questions and get lots of inspiration. Worth joining for sure.

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Oceanside Dress by Itch to Stitch

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I have done another test this past week from American indiedesigner, Kennis Wong from Itch to Stitch. She has designed this lovely knit dress, Oceanside Dress in a sizerange from 00-20. (On sale, too, right now)

 

She describes it like this;Skærmbillede 2017-06-27 kl. 12.58.44

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The dress is for an beginner+ to intermediate sewer. Mainly because of the inset in the front and the way the sleeve is constructed. I really like the sleeves and the way they are made; they are set in, and the edge of the sleeve is finished before you set them in.  This means that you dont see the seam allowance from the sleeve peeping out. Very nice feature.

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The way this dress is designed you can easily combine sizes if you are different sizes at the body and waist. You simply cut the size you need for each bodypart and combine them at the waist. Very simple.
fullsizeoutput_4dcFrom the measurement table I was supposed to be a size 8 at the body and a size 12 at the skirt. I made my muslin in a size 10 at the top and a size 12 at the bottom. I did however find it to be too big for me. I will wear it though, because I love the fabric and the colors. The dark is a dusty dark denim blue and the contrastcolor is a nice bright peach/orange.

The final dress I made in a very nice grey cottonknit with some lycra in it. As an accent color I choose a striped cotton knit. I really wanted the stripes to be vertical instead of horisontal, so I flipped the patternpiece to fit the stripes. Someting I would normally never do, but in this case I knew it would work, since the fabric has stretch in both directions.

 

Since there is no elastic in the waistband the instruction suggests to sew in som clear elastic in the seams in the waistband. I did that, and it works really well. The waistband stays in the waist.

fullsizeoutput_4efThis is a great dress for summer and it will definitely get lot of wear. I think I will have to make one in a light rayon, too.

Kennis instructions are precise and clear and the illustrations a big help. If you go to Kennis´blog, you can see how the dress fits different bodytypes.

She also has a Facebook page where you can show of your Itch to Stitch projects and get help if you need it. For the first 24 of the release, you can get a coupon code when you join the facebook group.

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New Wardrobe By Me patterns

A few weeks ago I saw Christina from Wardrobe By Me looking for testers for 3 new summertops and I jumped right in and offered my assistance. I was lucky enough to be chosen as one of the testers.

I have never done any testing before, so I wasn’t sure what to expect, but I must say it was a lot of fun and very educational.DSC_0817

The first top I choose to test, was the Summer Breeze Tunic. This is a very lovely top with a slit at the front and ruffles at the bottom. The top is longer at the back, with is nice. An easy sew with a great fit. I made mine in a rayon/viscose from Stof og Stil.

Skærmbillede 2017-05-31 kl. 14.13.29The next Wardrobe By Me top I tested was the Summer Tulip Top. This top is my favorite of the two. The first one I made in a powder colored rayon/viskose also from Stof og Stil. I like this fabric because it comes in some nice solid colors and I often find rayon fabric way too busy for my taste. I must admit; I also like the price, especially for testing😊.

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The second Summer Tulip Top I managed to squeeze onto a gorgeous Liberty of London silk I bought a few years back in London. I only had a meter and the only reason I managed to puzzle in all the pattern pieces was, that is non-directional. I really love this top and I have worn it several times since.

I think the gathering of fabric on the chest is very flattering and the kimono-like sleeve gives you slimmer upper arms. The fold on the sleeve is constructed in a way so that you don´t see the seam allowance from the fold on the inside of the sleeve. Very cleverly constructed. This top has a curved edge with a small hem.

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Christina also had a sweatpants pattern for men on the way and was looking for testers. I was lucky enough to be able to test that too. This time it was the Rebel Sweatpants and Shorts.

I made a pair of sweatpants for my husband and a pair for my son. Both made in French Terry with some lycra.

My husband had been wanting sweatpants for a while and I have bought several pairs for him. None of wich he had liked and I have had to take them all back. I didn’t like the fit. Too loose at the bottom of the legs, too baggy, too tight on the thighs…..

I was a bit worried sewing these, I mean, I couldn’t just take them back to the store. Luckily they turned out to fit him just right. Not too baggy, but still room enough for his thighs and slim at the calves.

The pair I made for my son he has worn ever since. He is funny like that; he never wears sweatpants out of the house, but the second he walks in the door, and the sweatpants goes on.

My son wears the pants a lot lower that my husband, but they work really well both ways.

I love Christina´s patternes. They are pdf, so you have to print them yourself. The are made in layers, so you can choose which sizes you want printed. That makes it a lot easier when drawing the pattern pieces afterwards. Another nice thing is, that you don´t need to trim the papers before taping. That is a big timesaver!