The beautiful Mexican-inspired Frida

I have tested another great Tunic.This time from Australian Designer Stitch. It is the fabulous Frida.
Frida Boho Designer Stitch Tunic Mexican blouse

The tunic is describes like this;
“The Frida encompasses all things vintage Mexican, Boho, gorgeous textiles and the most amazing trims and embellishments. Frida offers the choice of tunic length, tunic with gathered ruffle, dress with gathered ruffle or full length dress.
Add your choice of sleeve – short, long, short gathered puff or gathered long sleeve bishop to create a unique and on-trend seasonal silhouette”.
Skærmbillede 2017-09-28 kl. 13.58.15So true. There is a lot of options with this tunic/dress. Testers have made Frida in all sorts of styles and combinations. Frida is giving you a great opportunity to get out lots of trims and play around, but as I like my clothes to be more on the simple side, I found a fabric with some boho-feeling to it and omitted trims.

The fabric is from Citystoffer. Unfortunately it is not on their website, since they didn’t have a lot of it. It is a really great sheer cotton/silk blend with the pattern mirrored on either side. Perfect for a project like Frida. Look at the pictures below for details from the back where the mirroring really shows.

Skærmbillede 2017-09-28 kl. 14.15.19

Here is an overview of the options. Since I need blouses/tunics in my wardrobe, I chose to make a tunic length top without the ruffles. I would like to wear it tucked in and ruffles don´t tuck in very well.
I love all the sleeve options, but since it is getting autumn really fast here in Denmark, I went with the long Bishop sleeve (reminds me of a peasant blouse, with I really like).

The pattern is so well drafted, everything comes together nicely and the instructions are easy to follow. Ann is very meticulous in her work, making it a pleasure to sew up her patterns.
Definitely more Fridas for me in the future; with all the options given in this one pattern, the possibilities are numerous.

The Frida is on sale until Wednesday the 11th of October.

Frida Boho Designer Stitch Tunic Mexican blouseFrida Boho Designer Stitch Tunic Mexican blouseFrida Boho Designer Stitch Tunic Mexican blouse

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Reklamer

The bohemian Janis BoHo Tunic

Scroll down for Danish version / Scroll ned for dansk version

Another great pattern from talented, Danish pattern designer Christina from Wardrobe by Me. This time it is a gorgeous tunic, called Boho Janis with several sleeve, neck and bottom options.

sewing blog about testing patterns sewing my own wardrobe

The tunic has a bohemian relaxed feel, but sewn up in a different fabric it will yield a totally different look. Imagine a singlecolor silk for a stylish look or a flower pattern for a more romantic feel. Or how about making a Janis in a light isoli for

a comfy look and feel?

There are four sleeve options and I chose to make the voulant option. First of all I´m not really fond of sewing ruffles, secondly I really like the more smooth transition between sleeve and voulant.

The fabric I choose is from Citystoffer, although I wasn’t able to find the actual fabric on the website. It is very airy and light and somewhat sheer. I might wear a cami underneath, however I´m not in these pictures.

The pattern itself is very much up to Wardrobe by Me´s usual standard, with great drawing and explanations to take you through every step. This is a pretty easy, fast sew that can be sewn by most people, depending on fabric of course.
Wardrobe by Me also has a FB, where you can get lots inspiration and help.

I have sewn a straight size 10, only alteration is that I lengthened the sleeve by 4 cm. Pretty standard alteration for me.sewing blog about testing pdf patterns sewing my own wardrobe

The pants are of course the lovely North Point Trousers.

The pattern is on sale now; and it is really worth it.

Endnu et skønt mønster fra talentfulde, danske mønsterdesigner Christina fra Wardrobe by Me. Denne gang en lækker tunika, Boho Janis, med flere forskellige ærme-, hals- og kantafslutninger.

Tunikaen har en boheme, afslappet stil, men syet i andet stof kan den få et helt andet udtryk. Ensfarvet silke ville gøre den vældig elegant, mens blomstret stof ville gøre den mere romatisk. Eller hvad med at sy en afslappet tunika i isoli?

Der er fire ærmeafslutninger at vælge imellem; jeg valgte voulant versionen. Jeg er ikke alt for pjattet med at sy flæser og jeg kan bedre lide overgangen mellem ærme og voulant.

Stoffet er fra Citystoffer. Jeg kunne ikke finde det på deres hjemmeside, men det er meget let og lidt transparent 100% bomuldsstof med batikmønster. Jeg kommer nok til at bruge blusen med en lille top under, men det har jeg nu ikke på billedet.

Mønstret lever helt op til Wardrobe ny Me´s vanlige standard, med gode illustrationer og forklaringer til alle trin. Det er et forholdsvis let mønster, som kan sys af de fleste, afhængigt at stofvalg, selvfølgelig.
For mere inspiration og hjælp har Wardrobe by Me en super fin FB  side.

Jeg har syet en str 10 uden de store tilpasninger. Eneste ændring er, at jeg har lagt 4 cm til i ærmelængden, hvilket jeg ofte har brug for.
Bukserne er selvfølgelig mine skønne North Point Trousers.

Boho Janis er nedsat et stykke tid.

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sewing blog about testing pdf patterns sewing my own wardrobesewing blog about testing pdf patterns sewing my own wardrobesewing blog about testing pdf patterns sewing my own wardrobe

Stylish North Point Trousers

Scroll down for Danish version / Scroll ned for dansk version

I am always a little hesitant when it comes to sewing trousers. Fitting trousers can be difficult, especially if you start out with a dodgy pattern. That is why there was no doubt in my mind when talented Kennis from Itch to Stitch called out for testers for her new pattern for trousers. I knew it would be a very well drafted pattern with great fit and thorough instructions, and I was right.
This is really a pair of trousers were no corners were cut when it comes to techniques and features.
Her is how Kennis describes the North Point Trousers;sewing blog about testing pdf patterns sewing my own wardrobe

  • Classically sleek straight leg silhouette
  • Medium rise and curve through hip and thigh
  • Ankle length that can be lengthened or shortened
  • Contour waistband for a better fit
  • Streamlined front slanted pockets
  • Strong and durable back single-welt pockets
  • Fly front with zipper and double hook and bar closure
  • Use of stretch woven fabric for comfort

I have never sewn a welt pocket before and was a bit in awe of it, but Kennis has made a really thorough instruction on her blog, with lots of pictures.
Apart from the features above, I also really like, that the front pocket extend al the way to the fly, making sure the pocket stays in place and doesn’t open too much or flap out.

I did have to make some adjustments to the pattern mostly due to my protruding thighs and calfs. I used these two alterations and that pretty much solved my issues. I also added 3″ in length. I am tall and also like my trousers a little longer that ankel length.

Fitting trousers can be a bitch, but I promise you, these trousers are really worth the effort. They are so comfortable, because of the fit and the fabric with a little stretch and yet very stylish. I will be making lots more of these.
It is such a pleasure to now be able to sew pants that fits nicely and will last for years. I´m definately sewing more North Point Trousers. Just gotta love that.
If you find that you need help with these or have fitting issues, I highly recommend joining the Itch to Stitch FB group  

Remember the pattern is on sale until the 12th of September.

Jeg er altid lidt tilbageholdende når det kommer til at skulle sy bukser. At tilpasse bukser er virkelig svært, specielt hvis dit udgangspunkt er et halvdårligt mønster. Derfor turde jeg også godt springe på, da Kennis fra Itch ti Stitch søgte efter testere til sit nye buksemønster. Jeg vidste at det ville være et gennearbejdet, velkonstrueret mønster med god pasform. Jeg tog ikke fejl.
Sådan beskriver Kennis North Point Trousers;

  • klassisk buks med smalle, lige ben
  • Mellemhøj talje og figurformet over hofte og lår
  • Ankellængde der kan forkortes eller forlænges.sewing blog about testing pdf patterns sewing my own wardrobe
  • Faconsyet linning for en god pasform
  • Tætsiddende skrå lommer
  • Stærk og holdbar enkelt paspolieret lomme
  • Lynlås foran og lukning med buksehægte
  • Strækstof for komfort

Jeg har aldrig før syet paspiloeret lomme før og var lidt nervøs for det, men Kennis har lavet en virkelig god og omhyggelig vejledning med masser af billeder på sin blog.
Udover ovenstående er jeg også ret vild med, at lommeposen går helt ind og har fat ved lynlåsen. Det gør at lommen ikke flapper ud, men bliver pænt siddende hvor den skal.

Jeg har lavet et par tilpasninger, hovedsaligt for at få mine fremtrædende lår og lægge til at være der. Se billeder længere oppe. Jeg har også forlænget benene med ca 7cm. Jeg er høj og jeg vil gerne have bukser lidt længere ned til anklen.

Det kan være svært at tilpasse bukser i næsten fast stof, men de her bukser er det virkelig værd. De er så komfortable, dels pga mønstret og tilpasningen, dels pga stoffet med lidt stræk, men samtidig stilfulde.
Nu når jeg har gjort arbejdet med at tilpasse én gang, kan jeg sy bukser der passer til mig så ofte jeg orker…., det er da for fedt!! Jeg skal helt sikkert have syet flere par.
Hvis du har brug for hjælp med tilpasning, kan jeg anbefale dig at finde Itch to Stitch Facebook gruppe; der er masser af hjælp og inspiration at hente.

Husk mønstret er nedsat indtil den 12. september.

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The very feminine Kristen Dress

Scroll down for Danish version /scroll ned for den danske version.

I have sewn and tested the very feminine Kristen Dress by Australian Ann Grose from Designer Stitch. I would not usually wear something with ruffles or a wide skirt, but I really liked the look of this dress and have not regretted sewing it.

sewing blog about testing pdf patterns sewing my own wardrobeKristen Dress is a knee length dress with a wide skirt, fitted bodice and ruffles on the neck and front. There is an option between a sleeve or ruffles at the armhole. I choose to sew the dress without the sleeve, since I wasn’t to keen on the sleeves provided.

Skærmbillede 2017-09-03 kl. 11.58.15The dress is meant to be sewn up in a light, vowen fabric, such as Rayon, silk or light cotton. I choose a black rayon for my first Kristen, but would love to make one i silk, too.

Personally I always make a muslin when I try or test a new pattern. I mean, we all have individual bodies and testing makes sure you get a fit that suits you. With the Kristen the fitting is pretty easy, as you only need to sew up the bodice and fit that. The skirt is pretty wide and forgiving when it comes to fitting, so no need to sew that up.

Another thing that makes the Kristen easy to fit, is that it comes with different cup sizes, ranging from B to DD. There is also very good instruction helping you to choose which one you´ll need. I turnes out to be a straight size 5 with a B cup and didn´t have to make any alterations, except I lengthened the bodice 1″/2,5 cm. That was totally unnecessary, and I will take that of again with the next one.

The Kristen dress is on sale now for a limited time. Do get it now, it is a gorgeous, really well drafted dress and apart from being stylish it is also very comfortable. Win win….

Jeg har syet og testet den meget feminine Kristen Dress af australske Ann Grose fra Designer Stitch. Normalt ville jeg aldrig vælge en kjole med flæser eller skørt med vidde, men jeg faldt for den her kjole og jeg har bestemt ikke fortrudt.

Kristen Dress er en knælang kjole med skørt med vidde, en overdel der sidder til og flæser ved halsen og foran. Der er valgmulighed mellem et ærme og flæser ved ærmegabet. Jeg valgte flæserne, da jeg ikke var alt for vild med de lidt flagrende ærmer.

Kjolen skal sys i let, vævet stof, f.eks viscose, silke eller bomuld. Jeg har syet den i en let, lidt tung fast viscose. Jeg vil virkelig gerne lave en i silke også.

Jeg laver altid en prøve, når jeg tester eller prøver nye mønstre. Vi har jo alle forskellige kroppe og ting der skal tages hensyn til. Det er bare så meget lettere med en prøve og det sikre, at du får den rette pasform.
Det er ret let at tilpasse Kristen Dress, fordi du kun behøver at sy overdelen og tilpasse den. Skørtet er med så meget vidde, at det typiske ikke vil være nødvendigt at sy det op i en prøve.
Mønstret kommer desuden også med forskellige skål størrelser, fra B til DD, og en god vejlening til hvordan du vælger den rette størrelse. Jeg skulle efter skemaet væren en str 5 med B skål og det passede fuldstændigt. Jeg har kun tillagt lidt længde ved taljen, men det havde ikke været nødvendigt og det ryger af ved den næste.

Kristen Dress er på tilbud lige nu og i en begrænset periode.
Det er en super fin, velkonstrueret kjole som er både fin og meget behagelig at have på.

sewing blog about testing pdf patterns sewing my own wardrobe kristen dresssewing blog about testing pdf patterns sewing my own wardrobe kristen dress

The lovely Chai dress from Itch to Stitch

Dansk version længere nede (scroll down for Danish version)

There is a new pattern from the talented Itch to stitch just out. The Chai Shirt and Dress is a “classic fit-and-flare style that flatters everyone”.
The flattering part is really true. During the testing I have seen this dress sewn up for a lot of different sizes and a lot of different bust sizes, and it looks really great on all sizes. Part of that is because Kennis makes the pattern with cup-sizes from A-DD. No need to make any FBA or SBA.
Also the dress is supposed to be fitted at the waist, and that looks great on most people.

The pattern comes with the option for a sleeveless dress or a gathered short sleeve. The Chai is designed with a narrow shoulder line, which gives you a petit appearance even if you, as me, have broad shoulders. The gathering on the sleeves cover the shoulder, if you choose that option. I usually have to adjust for my broad shoulders, but I didn’t have to on the Chai. The final dress I made sleeveless, but my muslin had shoulders (see last picture with pins instead of buttons and all).

sewing blog about testing pdf patterns sewing my own wardrobe chai dress

Chai is meant to be sewn in light-weight woven fabric, such as Shirting, cotton, lightweight denim, rayon twill and crepe. I made my muslin in a light cotton and the final dress in a black woven rayon with a little polyester.
My next Chai will be made with a lovely rayon crepe from Atelier Brunette from Metermeter.

This is my second time testing for Kennis at Itch to Stitch and I really love her patterns. They are very thoroughly constructed and everything fits together so well. I love her sense of detail and her choice of methodes.
Kennis´instructions are very clear and precise and illustrated very well.

sewing blog about testing pdf patterns sewing my own wardrobe chai dress
Choosing buttons is a bit difficult, I think. It is so important for the overall appearance of the dress/skirt and most times you have to decide only from the fabric when you buy it at the store or from what you have in your stash at home. Ideally you would sew the garment, bring it to the store and then decide which buttons to choose. Well who has that kind of time?
This time I was lucky; I found some vintage buttons from my moms old stash that went nicely with the dress. I just love how they came, sewn onto cardboard one by one.
I always find it tedious to sew on buttons by hand, especially since it is usually the last thing you do when sewing a garment. The awesome test group gave me the courage to sew buttons on with my sewing machine. Wow, what a difference. Will be doing that from now on.

Go get your pattern now; it is on sale for the next short period of time.

Chai Shirt and Dress

Der er netop kommet et nyt mønster fra super dygtige Itch to Stitch. Chai Shirt and Dress er en klassisk skjortekjole med vidde der klæder alle.
Og den klæder virkelig de fleste. I løbet af testen har jeg set den syet op i mange størrelser med mange forskellige bust-størrelser og den er super fin til alle. Det skyldes nok delvist, at Kennis laver sine mønstre med forskellige cup størrelser. Man skal altså måde vælge sin størrelse og sin cup størrelse. Ingen grund til at skulle lave FBA eller SBA.

Kjolen/skjorten er lavet til at sidde til i taljen og det giver en god silhouette til de fleste.

Kjolen/skjorten giver mulighed for enten at lave den uden ærme eller med et kort rynket ærme. Chai er designed med smal skulderbredde og får en til at se mere petit ud, også selvom man, som jeg, har brede skulder. Jeg skal normalt lave en tilretning for brede skuldre, men det er ikke nødvendigt her; rynkerne på ærmet dækker fint. Se evt sidste billede som er min prøvekjole (med nåle istedet for knapper und alles).

Chai er designed til at blive syet op i let fast stof, f.eks skjortestof, let bomuld, fast viscose i twill eller crepe eller måske silke. Jeg lavede min prøvekjole i let bomuld og den endelige version i viscose med lidt polyester.
Den næste skal laves i en super lækker viscose crepe fra Atelier Brunette fra Metermeter.

Det er anden gang jeg tester for Kennis fra Itch to Stitch og jeg er vild med hendes mønstre. De er meget gennemførte og alle dele passer perfekt sammen. Hun bruger nogle fine detaljer og gode teknikker.
Vejledningen er udførlig og alle trin er illustreret meget fint.
Jeg lærer noget hver gang😊.

At vælge knapper er ikke altid helt let, men meget vigtigt for det endelige udtryk. For det meste vælger man mens man står i butikken med et stykke stof i hånden eller udfra hvad man har på lageret hjemme. Ideelt set skulle man sy tøjet, tag det med i forretningen og så vælge der udfra, men hvem har tid til det?
Jeg var heldig denne gang; jeg fandt nogle gamle knapper fra min mors gamle lager som passede godt. Synes det er så fint, at de er syet på et fint stykke karton enkeltvis.
Jeg synes det er meget langsommeligt at sy knapper på i hånden, især når der er så mange, men gennem testgruppen fik jeg mod nok til at prøve at sy knapper i på symaskinen. WOW, hvorfor har jeg ikke gjort det før. Det er super nemt.

sewing blog about testing pdf patterns sewing my own wardrobe chai dress

sewing blog about testing pdf patterns sewing my own wardrobe chai dress itch to stitch
sewing blog about testing pdf patterns sewing my own wardrobe chai dress itch to stitchsewing blog about testing pdf patterns sewing my own wardrobe chai dress itch to stitch

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Hera from Wardrobe by Me hack

There is jet another new pattern coming out from Wardrobe by Me. This time also a top, but this one is different; It is FREE. Yes, free. All you have to do to get your hands on this gorgeous pattern, is to sign up for a Wardrobe by Me newsletter.

The top is called Hera after a Greek goddess. Here is how Christina from WbM describes Hera herself  “a sweet feminine peplum top. It´s designed with flutter sleeves and an easy elasticated waistline. The neckline is finished with facing and the lower part of the armscye is finished with binding”.Skærmbillede 2017-06-27 kl. 13.58.52

I did not choose to test this top, since I am a little ambivalent towards flutter sleeves and I have never tried on anything with a peplum. But when Christina asked us testers, if we would like to hack the Hera top, I immediately felt like doing a Hera top with an Urban Sweatpants bottom, sort of like a jumpsuit. Many testers did great hacks and there is a lot inspiration to be found on the Wardrobe by Me blog. If you would like a short sleeve instead of the flutter sleeve, there is a pattern for that in the WbM pattern support group on FB.

The Hera top is made for woven fabric and the Urban for knit. I new I could get the Hera to work in a knit and I wasn’t sure about making the Urban in a woven, so I choose to make the whole garment in a black cotton/rayon knit with lycra.

I had to make a few adjustments to make the two patterns work together;

  • I lengthened both the body of the Hera and the pants to make sure they met at the waist and wouldn’t give me a wedgie. I am also tall, 5’8 and usually have to add extra length when I sew. I lengthened both with 2″, which means 4″ extra length all in all. I was pleased with the amount, as it also gave the top more of a blouse effect.
  • I wanted to omit the flutter sleeve, so instead I made the shoulder wider in order to make it a bit more kimono-like. I am really pleased with this change.
  • Since sewing the two together didn’t make it possible to sew in a waistband, I included a 2″ strip of the fabric to the inside seam when I sew the two together. After connection the two, I sew the extra band to the pants, which gave me a tunnel to run my string through. Before sewing the top and bottom together, I had put in eyelets to the top front of the pants.

This Hera/Urban hack is sooo comfortable and jet pretty stylish, I think. It can be dressed up or down with shoes and accessories and will get lots of wear. You know how sometimes you sew something and it looks good when you put it on and look in the mirror, but when you wear it afterwards, it dosen´t feel right or works in reality. This is not the case here. I have worn this a few times already and it feels very good. It works!

I have not sewn the Urban sweatpants before, but after doing this mix, I will definitely have to make a pair of Urban straight up. I really like the fit; roomy at the thighs and slim at the calves.

Christina has a Facebook page where you can share your WbM work, ask questions and get lots of inspiration. Worth joining for sure.

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Oceanside Dress by Itch to Stitch

I have done another test this past week from American indiedesigner, Kennis Wong from Itch to Stitch. She has designed this lovely knit dress, Oceanside Dress in a sizerange from 00-20. (On sale, too, right now)

sewing blog about testing pdf patterns sewing my own wardrobe oceanside dress itch to stitch

She describes it like this;Skærmbillede 2017-06-27 kl. 12.58.44

sewing blog about testing pdf patterns sewing my own wardrobe oceanside dress itch to stitch

The dress is for an beginner+ to intermediate sewer. Mainly because of the inset in the front and the way the sleeve is constructed. I really like the sleeves and the way they are made; they are set in, and the edge of the sleeve is finished before you set them in.  This means that you dont see the seam allowance from the sleeve peeping out. Very nice feature.

sewing blog about testing pdf patterns sewing my own wardrobe oceanside dress itch to stitch

The way this dress is designed you can easily combine sizes if you are different sizes at the body and waist. You simply cut the size you need for each bodypart and combine them at the waist. Very simple.
fullsizeoutput_4dcFrom the measurement table I was supposed to be a size 8 at the body and a size 12 at the skirt. I made my muslin in a size 10 at the top and a size 12 at the bottom. I did however find it to be too big for me. I will wear it though, because I love the fabric and the colors. The dark is a dusty dark denim blue and the contrastcolor is a nice bright peach/orange.

The final dress I made in a very nice grey cottonknit with some lycra in it. As an accent color I choose a striped cotton knit. I really wanted the stripes to be vertical instead of horisontal, so I flipped the patternpiece to fit the stripes. Someting I would normally never do, but in this case I knew it would work, since the fabric has stretch in both directions.

 

Since there is no elastic in the waistband the instruction suggests to sew in som clear elastic in the seams in the waistband. I did that, and it works really well. The waistband stays in the waist.

sewing blog about testing pdf patterns sewing my own wardrobe oceanside dress itch to stitchThis is a great dress for summer and it will definitely get lot of wear. I think I will have to make one in a light rayon, too.

Kennis instructions are precise and clear and the illustrations a big help. If you go to Kennis´blog, you can see how the dress fits different bodytypes.

She also has a Facebook page where you can show of your Itch to Stitch projects and get help if you need it. For the first 24 of the release, you can get a coupon code when you join the facebook group.

sewing blog about testing pdf patterns sewing my own wardrobe

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